PENFOLDS GRANGE VINTAGE 2007
As a five year-old, dense vivid red—impenetrable almost to the rim.
Unmistakably Grange—formic, ripe, pungent, confronting. Core: darker elements—soy/cola/peat/ coal-dust/Dutch black liquorice with sesame/sea-weed/quince paste. Beneath: coffee-grind/mocha/ bitter chocolate (from oak?). Above: African spices coupled with a fleeting and appealing glacial waft.
At once, balanced and accessible; fresh and tight. A structural and textural continuum—no beginning or end, no gaps. Complete. In an attempt to define the palate profile... Flavours: dates, persimmon, roasted nuts ... freshly baked pecan-pie/Portuguese custard tart. Oak: omnipresent, yet neither prominent nor ostentatious—completely assimilated. Tannins: neither obstructive nor aggressive, yet effortlessly conveying flavours. Yes, maturation of 21 months in barrel and three years in bottle, has moulded quite the structural and tactile Grange package.